Crossing Virginia: The Heart and Test of the Appalachian Trail
A seasoned hiker reflects on the mental and physical trials — and unforgettable beauty — of trekking more than 500 miles through the Old Dominion.
Maynard and Wolfman - at a trailhead in Virginia
A Familiar State, A Fresh Challenge
I arrived in the little town of Damascus, Virginia, feeling a sense of relief. Though my journey was far from over, I was now in my home state ‒ a place I’ve lived for over 30 years. Just 500 more miles to go until I reached my house in Northern Virginia.
I arrived in the little town of Damascus, Virginia, feeling a sense of relief. Though my journey was far from over, I was now in my home state ‒ a place I’ve lived for over 30 years. Just 500 more miles to go until I reached my house in Northern Virginia.
Virginia holds a special place on the Appalachian Trail (AT). With over 500 miles of trail winding through the state, it makes up more than a quarter of the entire AT. For many northbound (NOBO) thru-hikers, this is where the mental part of the journey truly begins.
The Infamous “Virginia Blues”
By the time you reach Virginia, you've already completed three states and over 400 miles. You've likely developed your "trail legs" and are feeling physically strong. But the initial thrill begins to wear off, replaced by a daily routine that, for some, starts to feel monotonous. Progress can feel slow ‒ getting through Virginia often takes over a month ‒ and many hikers begin experiencing the infamous “Virginia Blues.”
By the time you reach Virginia, you've already completed three states and over 400 miles. You've likely developed your "trail legs" and are feeling physically strong. But the initial thrill begins to wear off, replaced by a daily routine that, for some, starts to feel monotonous. Progress can feel slow ‒ getting through Virginia often takes over a month ‒ and many hikers begin experiencing the infamous “Virginia Blues.”
This stretch is mentally demanding. The excitement fades, the terrain stretches endlessly, and emotions run high. You miss family and friends. The weather swings wildly from winter’s cold to spring’s dampness to summer’s heat ‒ and, of course, the bugs. Some hikers quit due to injury, others because they feel they’ve gotten what they came for. The rest push on.
Rewarding Views and Iconic Moments
But for those who do, Virginia offers some of the most memorable moments on the entire AT. The trail crisscrosses the scenic Blue Ridge Parkway. You summit Mount Rogers, Virginia’s highest peak at 5,729 feet, and pass through the stunning Grayson Highlands, where wild ponies roam freely.
But for those who do, Virginia offers some of the most memorable moments on the entire AT. The trail crisscrosses the scenic Blue Ridge Parkway. You summit Mount Rogers, Virginia’s highest peak at 5,729 feet, and pass through the stunning Grayson Highlands, where wild ponies roam freely.
Near Roanoke, you encounter the Virginia Triple Crown ‒ McAfee Knob, Tinker Cliffs, and Dragon’s Tooth. These iconic spots offer some of the most photographed views on the trail.
As you reach northern Virginia, the trail takes you through Shenandoah National Park, with over 100 miles of gentle, well-maintained path and frequent opportunities to resupply or grab a hot meal. Before exiting the state into West Virginia, you’ll hit a huge milestone: 1,000 miles completed.
For me, crossing Virginia felt like both a homecoming and a test. It’s where I began to realize that I wasn’t just hiking the AT ‒ I was becoming a thru-hiker.