A Trip to Our Northern Neighbor (and a Slice of France)

Local residents explore the rugged beauty of Newfoundland and French territory of St. Pierre

Just one of many gorgeous sunsets.

In summer 2024, my partner Wesley and I fulfilled a long-held dream of visiting Newfoundland, inspired by the music of Great Big Sea. We spent two weeks exploring the eastern coast of the island, encountering stunning landscapes, wildlife, and some of the friendliest people on the planet.
 
We began our journey in St. John’s, the capital, staying at the Alt hotel with beautiful views of the harbor. Down the street, the pubs were alive with live music; you would have thought you were in Ireland. We visited The Rooms Museum and the Johnson Geo Center, learning about Newfoundland’s rich history and geology. A highlight was Signal Hill, where we enjoyed breathtaking panoramic views of the Atlantic and the city.
 
Next, we traveled to Twillingate, known as the iceberg capital of the world; sadly, iceberg season had ended. We hiked the Spillers Cove trail along the jagged cliffs and down to the serene shores of French Beach. En route to Bonavista, we stopped at Gander's aviation museum, which also commemorates the town's hospitality during 9/11 when it hosted thousands of stranded passengers.
 
Bonavista was a paradise for wildlife enthusiasts. Here, I checked off a bucket list item by observing puffins in the wild, delighting in their quirky flight as they landed near their nests. Our hike to Chimney Rock offered stunning views of both puffins and sea caves along the cliffs. Each evening, we watched whales, their low calls blending with ocean sounds against spectacular sunsets. We also discovered some of the oldest fossils in the world at nearby Port Union.
 
Our adventure continued with a ferry ride to St. Pierre, a French territory off the southeast coast. We experienced a slice of France, complete with Euros and local pétanque games. At a small bar, we cheered as France triumphed over Spain in the Euro Cup quarterfinals, and learned about St. Pierre's intriguing bootlegging history during Prohibition.
 
Returning to St. John's for one last day, we stayed at Blue on Water, where we were surprised to see a film crew transforming the city into Portland, ME, for an episode of Reacher. We’re excited to see if we make a cameo.
 
Our two-week exploration only scratched the surface of what Newfoundland has to offer. We’re already planning a return trip to discover Gros Morne National Park and more of the island’s natural wonders.