An Island We Found by Zooming In
A Google Maps search led one couple to Indonesia's remote island of Sumba, where uncrowded surf, vibrant reefs and quiet beaches made for an unforgettable honeymoon.
A Different Kind of Honeymoon Search
We found our honeymoon destination on Google Maps. It’s a good strategy when you have a vague idea of what you’re looking for. We knew we wanted to go somewhere farther than the typical vacation supported by American PTO, so we quickly settled on Southeast Asia.
Our ideal destination was an uncrowded island where we could surf, snorkel and relax on the beach. Neither of us had been to Indonesia, so we searched some of its lesser-known islands, filtered hotels with at least 4.5-star reviews and booked Cap Karoso, a relatively new resort on the island of Sumba.
Empty Lineups, Endless Adventure
One of Indonesia’s thousands of islands, Sumba was described by a local as “Bali 50 years ago, but twice the size.” It’s remote, largely undeveloped and still relatively unexplored. More languages are spoken on the island than there are resorts, though new accommodations are under construction. Cornfields and cashew groves stretch to the sea, creating striking contrasts of gold and blue. Driving the narrow roads often meant slowing for “Sumba traffic” — chickens, dogs and water buffalo.
Cap Karoso offers an ideal balance of adventure and relaxation. A gentle wave breaking a few hundred yards offshore provided hours of surfing each day. One morning, we drove an hour to Waingapu, where a fast left-hand break rolls over a shallow reef. Nearby Ratenggaro, with its traditional houses rising nearly 65 feet into the sky, overlooks the surf from the cliffs above.
Aside from two Australians, we had the break entirely to ourselves and caught the best waves of our lives as the tide dropped. It was hard not to think that if Waingapu were easier to reach, it would be packed with surfers. Walking back to the car, we passed people fishing with hand lines, signs warning of nearby crocodiles and sandalwood horses grazing along the shore.
A Rare Slice of Indonesia
Despite Indonesia’s reputation as a world-class diving destination, Sumba has no dive shops. Locals told us the diving is not as impressive as elsewhere in the country, but we snorkeled anyway and discovered a thriving reef filled with live coral and colorful fish. As we paused to watch an anemone, two protective clownfish rushed toward us, baring their tiny teeth. Healthy reefs this vibrant are becoming increasingly rare, and we had this one almost entirely to ourselves.
Maybe in a few years Sumba will become the next Komodo, attracting divers and surfers from around the world. We hope not. Just as it is today, Sumba remains the most remarkable place we’ve ever stumbled upon.