Papa, Meet Me in Prague

A granddaughter’s simple question inspires an unexpected trip across the Atlantic – and a family adventure through the City of a Hundred Spires.

Lunch with the family

I got a call from my 15-year-old granddaughter, Trina, a few months ago about a trip she and her parents were taking through several countries in Europe.
 
“Papa, you’ve been to Prague,” she said. “When we go there, what should I make sure to see?” After giving her a short list of about six places, I suddenly replied, “Why don’t I just meet you there and show you?”
 
That’s what Papas are for – and why we work so hard and save for travel. So that when you get that “Hey, Papa” call, you can pack a bag and join the family.
 
I absolutely love to travel, especially with family, when you can experience new places and create memories together. Of all the cities and countries I’ve been fortunate enough to visit in Europe – London, Dublin, Paris, Budapest, Copenhagen, St. Petersburg and more – Prague ranks right up there at the top with Venice, Italy.
 
I really love smaller, walkable cities where you can wander for hours and discover much more than the typical tourist attractions. Prague is exactly that kind of city.
 
The last time I visited Prague, it was snowing. I had gone to experience the city’s annual Christmas markets, and Old Town was absolutely magical, illuminated by thousands of Christmas lights. As beautiful as it was, I swore I would return someday when the weather was warmer, so I could experience Prague in an entirely different season.
 
Once I got that wild hair to meet my family there, I quickly turned to Fiona Hamilton, my favorite travel advisor (and valued magazine advertiser). I’m one of those guys who wants a professional to track down the best, most comfortable and most reliable travel arrangements for me. I’ve earned this!
 
Fiona found great flights through American and British Airways, with amazingly comfortable seats and accommodations in both directions. She also found the perfect place for me to stay: Hotel Rott, located in the heart of Prague 1, just steps from Old Town Square and the Astronomical Clock – oh, and right next door to the Hard Rock Cafe.
 
The hotel was incredibly convenient, and the staff was friendly, helpful and accommodating. Even though I’m not much of a breakfast eater, Fiona bragged about it, since she had stayed there recently, as well.  So, I enjoyed going downstairs each morning to the quaint breakfast room, where a veritable feast was laid out for guests.
 
And the coffee – oh, the coffee. To die for. Europeans just seem to have a knack for making really amazing coffee.
 
Anywho … imagine walking out of Hotel Rott and immediately finding yourself surrounded by cobblestone streets, sidewalk cafés, Gothic towers and buildings that have witnessed centuries of history. Prague feels magical from the first step of the morning until the city lights come alive at night.
 
Since I had visited before, this trip wasn’t necessarily about returning to all the same attractions. It was about wandering – and Prague rewards that beautifully.
 
One morning might find me meandering across the famous Charles Bridge and eventually stumbling upon the Lennon Wall, covered with layers of colorful graffiti and messages. Another might lead me through a hidden courtyard, into a quaint neighborhood pub or coffee shop, or through one of the city’s “pocket parks,” where locals relaxed or rode their bikes.
 
Even the occasional wrong turn led me into neighborhoods and quiet corners of the city I might otherwise have missed. In Prague, getting a little lost doesn’t feel like a mistake … it’s one of my favorite parts of the experience.
 
I caught the sunrise on some mornings and stayed out late enough on others to watch the city take on a completely different personality after dark. I found myself every bit as entranced by Prague as I had been during my first visit.
 
Along the way, I made some new friends from Germany and the Czech Republic. One night, we all went to a wine & tapas bar and talked for hours, learning about one another’s lives and cultures. These are the moments I love most about travel – the unexpected connections with people whose lives may be very different from your own, yet who can become friends over a few glasses of wine and a shared conversation.
 
When my family arrived, we got up bright and early to see the first place on Trina’s list: the Astronomical Clock and its famous hourly “performance.”
 
From there, we went in search of coffee and koláče before trekking across Charles Bridge, winding through the beautiful streets of Malá Strana and climbing more than 270 steps toward Prague Castle.
 
The enormous castle complex dominates the city’s skyline and feels more like an entire historic district than a single castle. We explored the Old Royal Palace, the magnificent St. Vitus Cathedral, St. George’s Basilica and several adjoining buildings before walking into the expansive Royal Gardens. From there, we looked out over Prague and its celebrated “hundred spires.”
 
As impressive as those places were, what made the day special was watching Trina experience them for the first time. I had already seen many of these landmarks, but seeing her reaction allowed me to discover them all over again. That is one of the great gifts of traveling with family.
 
The historic Jewish Quarter called our names next, followed by a return to Old Town Square for lunch at one of my favorite places in Prague: Fat Cat.  Think of the Hard Rock Cafe during its early days – great food and drinks, a sassy and playful staff, and a lively, all-around fun place to eat.
 
Don’t get me wrong: I tried plenty of authentic Czech food during my visit, including hearty goulash with bread dumplings and an enormous pork knuckle. But I also enjoyed exploring some of the other cuisines the city had to offer.
 
My son’s wife, Lexi, knows Jason and me well. We love sampling craft beers whenever we explore a new city, and it’s even more fun when we get to do it together in Europe.  Lexi had quietly done a little research and led us down a small street to a hidden outdoor beer garden where the locals clearly preferred to gather. It was shady and relaxed, with more than 100 beers from throughout Europe available to sample.
 
Sitting there with my family, enjoying a cold beer in a place we never would have found on our own, was one of those simple travel moments that becomes a favorite memory.
 
Later that night, we made one final stop at another neighborhood hangout for an authentic Czech dinner. The place was filled with locals eating, drinking, laughing and enjoying one another’s company – and somehow, we felt right at home among them.
 
After a long day and nearly nine miles of walking, we finally turned in for the night. We would meet again for an early breakfast the following morning before they flew to Ireland and I began my journey home to the United States.
 
Our time together in Prague was much too short, but perhaps that is one reason it meant so much. A simple phone call from my granddaughter became an opportunity to cross an ocean, return to a city I love, and share it with my family.
 
Prague is a city that deserves to be experienced rather than simply checked off a sightseeing list. Go see the Astronomical Clock, walk across Charles Bridge, climb to Prague Castle and look out over its hundred spires. But also taste the goulash, linger over the coffee, sample a Czech beer, stay out long enough to see the city illuminated at night – oh, and allow yourself to take a few wrong turns.
 
Because Prague’s greatest treasures are not necessarily the ones marked on a map. Sometimes they are found down a quiet cobblestone street, inside a hidden neighborhood pub, or sitting across the table from someone you love.
 
And if your granddaughter ever calls and asks what she should see when she gets there, there is really only one answer:
 
“I’ll meet you there and show you.”